Friday, February 8, 2013

Delfina: Pork Sugo and Patience


If you've ever been lucky enough to pop into Delfina on Mission street, you will usually see a line of Ray Ban wearing people (even on rainy days) across the street at Bi-Rite Creamery getting their salted carmel ice cream on. I'm not judging them. No. I just want their spot in line. Gimme your ice cream.

Salted Caramel Ice Cream, Bi-Rite Creamery, San Francisco. Image: Max Falkowitz via Serious Eats










Did someone say ice cream?


Anyways, back to my story...

There were times when I would shop at Bi-Rite Market on the same block. I would try and sneak into Delfina for a table for one at either the bar or the counter for just their simple spaghetti dish after shopping. The pasta has the perfect bite, sweetness in the tomatoes and a little kick from the peperoncini. What I loved is that it comes in two sizes ($10/$15); I would always jump for the smaller portion. I mean, come on. I am grocery shopping and I plan on cooking when I get home.

Perfect, simple, the best. Spaghetti, Delfina, SF. Image: Via www.http://epicureanzealot.com


I've always been a fan of Italian cuisine whether it be a simple pasta dish or a rustic meal. I always found Delfina to be the perfect way to get my fix.



_____


But there was this one time I made it to this lovely San Francisco restaurant (reservations are so necessary) and I will never forget when that hot plate hit the table.

Pork Sugo.
Pappardelle.
Simple.
Life changing.


Soon after I had randomly ordered it that night, I realized it was #11 on the 7x7 list, The Big Eat 2012. Holy cannoli.
Pork Sugo from Delfina, SF. Image: Michael M. via Foodspotting.com


I'm not sure if they make their own pasta, but the pasta sopped up that rustic sauce so beautifully. I think at the time I got a 2009 Unti Syrah. Oh, I wish we could relive moments. I think it was just a glass or two. Yeah, just one glass. Sure.


But, I tried and looked for the recipe online - voila! NOTE: This sauce takes about 2 days. It's worth it - I promise.

Thank you 7x7, once again!


Pork Sugo from Delfina



Makes 8-10 servings

2 pounds pork butt
1/2 rack pork spareribs
Kosher salt
Black pepper
1/2 cup canola oil
3 cups sliced yellow onion
1 cup carrots, sliced on a bias
1 cup celery, sliced on a bias
3 cloves garlic, smashed
2 sprigs rosemary, leaves stripped
5 sage leaves
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 cup dry white wine
2 quarts chicken stock
3 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon chopped parsley
Pinch chile flakes, to taste
Parmigiano Reggiano, grated, to taste
2 pounds pappardelle or other fresh pasta

1. Cut the pork shoulder into 4 pieces. Season the pork shoulder and spareribs with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a wide, heavy-bottomed pot, and add the pork. Brown well on all sides, remove the pork, and set aside.

2. To the pot add the onions, carrot, celery, garlic, and herbs, and sauté, stirring with a wooden spoon and scraping up the browned bits on the pot bottom. Add the tomato paste and cook over medium heat, stirring for 2 minutes. Deglaze with the wine and reduce by half.

3. Return the seared pork and ribs to the pot, add chicken stock, and bring to a simmer. Cover and transfer the pot to a 325-degree oven to cook until the meat is tender, approximately 2 hours. Remove from the oven, allow to cool, and refrigerate overnight.

4. The next day, discard any congealed fat. Over low heat, warm the sugo through. Remove the pork and ribs from the liquid. Pull the meat off the ribs and chop. Pull the shoulder apart by hand, discard the fat, and break the meat into large chunks.

5. Using a food mill, puree the liquid along with all of the vegetables and herbs. Return the resulting sugo to the pot, bring to a simmer, and reduce until it thickens, with good body and viscosity. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Add the meat to the pot, bring it a boil, and turn off heat.

6. To serve, in two batches, warm some of the pork sugo in a pan with the butter, chopped parsley, and chile flake (if desired). Concurrently drop the pasta in boiling, lightly salted water. When the pasta is almost fully cooked (approximately 2 minutes), drain the pasta, and add it to the pan containing the pork sugo. Cook the pasta in the sugo for another minute, and finish by stirring in some grated Parmigiano. Transfer to a serving plate, and serve immediately, offering more Parmigiano to grate over the top of the pasta.
Pasta, rosemary, mussel salad, wine, home, comfort.




Pork Sugo dinner at home, San Jose. Got a nice Il Boschetto al Tartufo: a semi-soft cheese with truffles.



J and I went to a cute little italian shop called "Bertucelli's La Villa" in the Willow Glen area of San Jose to pick up some pappardelle and cheese. We remembered how much we loved their mussel salad - nice chew, tart and taste like the ocean. Of course, we popped into BevMo! down the street to find a nice Italian red. 
So plan a few days ahead and maybe have that dinner party you've been dying to finally throw together. Hey, Valentines Day is right around the corner - why not make a nice romantic night of it at home and light the fire. (I'm so punny.)
This makes a lot of sauce, so you can always freeze leftovers. And you know what? It's the best leftovers. Ever.

Delfina is located at 3621 18th St. San Francisco, CA. They are open Sunday - Thursday from 5:30-10:00pm. Friday - Saturday from 5:30-11:00pm. Reservations are suggested.

No comments:

Post a Comment